Forbes Interviews Ueli Steck

It isn't often that a mountaineer gets mainstream press from a source like Forbes, but then again, not every mountaineer is Ueli Steck. The magazine recently conducted a nice interview with the "Swiss Machine," which you can read in its entirety here.

In the interview, Ueli – who is one of the 2015 National Geographic Adventurers of the Year – discusses his admiration for Reinhold Messner, how he compartmentalizes fear on his climbs, and his now legendary solo-summit of Annapurna. He also talks about his approach to speed-climbing in the Alps – comparing those efforts to a game – and his thoughts on the events that went down on Everest this past spring, including the use of helicopters to reach Camp 2.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the interview is in Ueli's discussion of his post-Annapurna plans. He says that immediately following that climb, he felt no motivations what so ever, and he didn't even do much climbing or training last winter at all. He felt like he had achieved the ultimate climb he had been searching for, he was left rudderless afterwards, searching for a new challenge. Fortunately he seems to have found one, although he doesn't say exactly what that challenge will be. It will involve Everest however, although we'll have to be patient to see what he has planned.

As one of the highest profile mountaineers in the world, Ueli always seems to be working on some interesting projects. He has been rather quiet for awhile now, so I suspect he's been working out the logistics of his next big expedition. Perhaps he'll be heading back to the Himalaya in the spring. Considering the events that took place on Everest in 2013 when he, Simone Moro, and Jonathan Griffith got into a very public brawl with the Sherpas, it would be good to see him go back. At the time, a lot of harsh words were said, but it seems that the hard feelings have mellowed some.

To read more of Ueli's thoughts on these topics, and others, click here.

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National Geographic Adventure Announces 2014 Adventurers of the Year

Also while I was away, National Geographic Adventure announced the 2014 Adventurers of the Year, honoring some of the most amazing people who accomplished impressive things over the past 12 months. As usual, the list is filled with inspiring people, many of whom we have followed closely here on The Adventure Blog.

In total, there are 14 people who have earned the distinction of being named Adventurers of the Year. They include mountaineer Ueli Steck for his amazing solo-summit of Annapurna in the fall of 2013, as well as climber Tommy Caldwell, who completed the first traverse of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. They are joined by ski-mountaineer Kit DesLauriers, who led an expedition to Alaska to explore the impact of climate change on glaciers there, and to more accurately measure the height of the mountains in the remote ANWR region. Swimmer Lewis Pugh get the nod for his extreme efforts in the water, but for also examining the health of the world's oceans, while blind adventurers Erik Weihenmayer and Lonnie Bedwell make the list for their successful attempt to kayak the length of the Grand Canyon. You can read about each of these men and women, and see the rest of the list, by clicking here.

Of course, Nat Geo has also opened up the voting for their annual People's Choice Adventurer of the Year as well, giving us the opportunity to vote for the person or persons, who we think made the most impressive and daring feat of the past year. Voting is open through January 31, 2015, with the winner being announced in February of next year. You can vote once a day, so be sure to check back regularly.

This is the tenth year that National Geographic has given out the Adventurer of the Year awards, and I'm proud to say that over the past few years, I've had some input on the nominees. This year, a few my suggestions once again made the cut, and it is an honor to see some of these men and women that I have followed closely since starting the blog get recognition for their efforts.

Congratulations to this year's class of Adventurers of the Year.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: More Summits on Cho Oyu, Ueli Talks Shishapangma Tragedy

The fall climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to wind down now, with just a few major expeditions still taking place. Over the weekend, there were more successful summits on Cho Oyu, and while those climbers struggled against high winds, back in Kathmandu, Ueli Steck talked about the tragedy on Shishapangma two weeks back that claimed two lives.

We'll start on Cho Oyu, where Chris Jensen Burke has claimed another 8000 meter peak, expanding her already impressive resume even further. She reports that topped out on Saturday of this week, along with her always-present Sherpa guide Lakpa, at 8:45 AM, and was joined at the top by a few other teammates a short time later. While details of the ascent remain sketchy at this time, Chris did indicate that they set out for the summit late that morning due to high winds, and they continued to battle sustained 50km (31 mph) gusts all the way up. She described it as the hardest climb she has made so far, and mentioned that she wore more clothes than ever before in order to stay warm. The Aussie climber promises more details of the climb soon, and should be resting back in BC now.

Meanwhile, Germany mountaineering reporter Stefan Nestler has posted an interview with Ueli Steck in which the Swiss climber talks about the avalanche that took place on Shishapangma two weeks back that claimed the lives of Italian climber Andrea Zambaldi, as well as German Sebastian Haag. Ueli described the scene as "eerie" saying that he and Benedikt Bohm were climbing a bit ahead of their teammates, as well as a third climber by the name Martin Maier. Steck said that a large ice slab simply gave way on the mountain, sweeping over Zambaldi, Haag, and Maier, almost without making any sound at all. The entire incident happened fast, and without warning, catching all five of the men off guard.



Ueli says that he and Bohm immediately tried to assist their friends, but the danger was too great. Climbing out to the area where they had fallen would have create an even greater chance of more avalanches, and although they searched for signs of their friends, they were forced to descend back to Camp 3. He also indicated that Maier was able to dig himself out of the avalanche and descend later as well, with just minimal injuries.

Steck is also quick to defend the Double8 expedition, as the team was known. The original plan was for Bohm, Haag, and Zambaldi to climb both Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, while traveling between the two peaks on mountain bikes. Steck described the idea as "an attractive, inspiring project" that wasn't taking undue risks. They just happened to get caught in the wrong place at the wrong time, and as a result, two of the team members lost their lives. The Swiss climber says that it could have easily been him caught in that avalanche, and it was just pure luck that he and Bohm were able to avoid it.

Elsewhere, the British Tri-Service team continues to acclimatize and get ready for their attempt along the tough Southeast Ridge of Makalu. They have now firmly established Camp 2 at 6800 meters (22,309 ft) and hope to install Camp 3 at 7200 meters (23,662 ft) later this week. They report that knee-deep snow on the mountain is making it difficult to progress, and a recent electrical storm put a scare into the squad, but otherwise things are progressing as expected so far.

That's all from the High Himalaya today. More news as it is warranted.

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Video: Ueli Steck - Mountaineering Legend

As I write this, we're awaiting word from Shishapangma on the success of the Double8 mountaineering expedition, which is attempting to summit two 8000 meter peaks in 7 days. After being turned back on Shisha last week, the three man team has expanded to include Swiss climber Ueli Steck to help get them over the top. Why would they add Ueli to their squad at the last minute? Watch the video below to find out why he is known as the "Swiss Machine." The 14-minute clip is an excellent profile of Ueli that will give you insights into what drives the man to do the things he does in the mountains.

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Video: Double8 Expedition Begins Final Preparation on Shishapangma

Earlier today I posted an update on the progress of teams in the Himalaya, including the Double8 squad who hope to summit two 8000-meter peaks in a seven day period, mountain biking and trail running between the two mountains. They are currently on Shishapangma, and preparing for their first summit push, releasing this video to give us an update on their progress. The clip features some fantastic looks at the mountain, where they have been climbing and skiing for awhile now. It also has a guest star in the form of none other than Ueli Steck, who is on Shisha to climb with his wife. According to the video, the Double8 team is just about ready to go, although they may spend one more night at Camp 3 before they launch their challenge.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Ueli on Shishapangma, Double8 Expedition Set To Begin

The fall 2014 Himalayan climbing season is now in full swing, with most teams either already in Base Camp, or well on their way. For many, the acclimatization process has begun, and the first steps towards reaching the summit have been taken. But there remains a lot of work to be done, and autumn hasn't even officially arrived just yet.

We'll start today on Shishapangma, where Swiss climbing legend Ueli Steck has checked in. Ueli has returned to a peak that he has already climbed in record time (10.5 hours!) to give it another go, this time climbing with his wife Nicole. As usual,  Ueli's dispatches are short, and to the point, so few details have been shared on their progress so far. I'm sure we'll get more updates in the days ahead, and something tells me this won't be another speed attempt this season.

75-year old Carlos Soria is on Shishapangma as well, and earlier today his team completed its Puj ceremony. That means the they are free to begin climbing the mountain, and will probably begin their first rotation up to Camp 1 tomorrow as well. Carlos is going for his 12th 8000-meter peak, which is an impressive accomplishment at any age.

The countdown on the Double8 expedition website says the team is expected to launch their speed attempt on Shishapangma tomorrow. According to their latest dispatch, the team of  Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi have been above 7000 meters on three occasions, and have spent the night in Camp 3. That means that they are acclimatized and ready to go for the summit, provided the weather cooperates. They report that there is lots of snow high on the mountain, which has made for slow, exhausting progress. But, if everything goes as planned, they'll launch their speed attempt tomorrow. If successful, they'll then descend back to BC, and mountain bike and trail run to Cho Oyu, which they also hope to summit in a fast and light style. The ultimate goal? Two 8000-meter peaks in just seven days.


Speaking of Cho Oyu, the commercial teams on that mountain have wrapped up their first acclimatization rotations. Both the Adventure Consultants and IMG teams have been up to Camp 1, and report that all is well. Progress has been sure and steady, and the squads are now happy to descend back to Advanced Base Camp for some rest. The fixed ropes are now in place up to Camp 2, so they'll probably start back up the mountain this weekend. Daily afternoon snow showers are common, but for the most part the weather is good.

Chris Jensen Burke is on her way to join the teams on Cho Oyu. She reached Tingri Village two days back, and spent some time acclimatizing there before moving higher. She is expected to arrive in BC today however, and will proceed immediately up to ABC, with a possible stop over at an interim camp to help with the adjustment to the altitude. Chris is fresh off a successful summit of K2 this summer, and is eager to add yet another 8000-meter peak to her resume.

ExWeb reports that the Korean team on Lhotse has made progress as well. Bad weather had kept them in Base Camp, but the skies cleared long enough for the team to move up to C1 and establish their first camp on the mountain. They are climbing along the South Face of course, sharing the same route to the summit of Everest up to Camp 3.

Over on Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies have returned to BC after spending a night at both Camp 1 and Camp 2. They report that light snow buried their fixed ropes, but they were able to proceed up none the less. The team is splitting the rope fixing duties with the Himex squad, and as of their dispatch, that work was completed to just below Camp 3. Poor weather forced the Sherpas to turn back from that point, although they are expected to return in another day or two to complete the work.

Finally, the British military team heading to Makalu is now en route to Base Camp. They are expected to reach that point on Saturday, when they'll begin their climb at long last. Their attempt on the long, and very difficult, Southeast Ridge will be interesting to follow, as the final approach will be done in alpine style along a route that is 15 km (9.3 miles) in length. This will be one of the more challenging climbs of the year, and it will be quite an accomplishment if they can pull it off.

That's all for now. I'll have another progress report soon.

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Outside TV Shares Video From the 2013 Brawl on Everest

One of the biggest stories in mountaineering over the past few years has been the brawl that ensued in 2013 when a team of European climbers got into a heated exchange with Sherpas that were fixing ropes above Camp 2 on the South Side. The fact that the European team included high-profile climbers Ueli Steck and Simone Moro, as well as Jonathan Griffith, only served to make the story a bigger one. Now, Outside Television has released exclusive video from the incident, giving us a glimpse of just how scary the scene on Everest actually was.

The clip, which you'll find below, includes some of the principle people that witnessed the clash, including Ueli, Simone, and Melissa Arnot, who found herself in the middle of the conflict. Each shares their thoughts on what transpired that day, while actual video from the fight rolls. The reactions that we see remain disturbing even now, a year and a half after they transpired. It is still surprising that no one got seriously hurt, but this is a reminder of just how delicate the relationship between commercial climbers and the Sherpa teams can be.

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Video: Ueli Steck on the Future of Climbing

This video, which is a promo shot for Goal Zero, features the Swiss Machine himself, Ueli Steck talking briefly about the future of climbing. Ueli mentions what he likes about climbing, and where he thinks things are headed for the upper levels of mountaineering. If you know anything about him, it'll probably come as no surprise to find that he thinks the future is pushing it to the limits on the really big mountains in the Himalaya.

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Simone Moro and Ueli Steck Returning to Everest?

In 2013, Simone Moro and Ueli Steck were involved in one of the more high profile mountaineering incidences in recent memory when they got into a fight with Sherpas on Everest. Words were exchanged high on the slopes, and egos from both parties got in the way, leading to an escalation of the situation beyond what anyone had anticipated. The conflict turned dangerous, and if it wasn't for the intervention of a few other western climbers, who knows what would have happened. As a result of the highly-publicized argument, both Simone and Ueli were turned off to the climbing scene in the Himalaya, and even indicated that they might not return. Ueli has since gone back to make his amazing solo-summit of Annapurna last fall, and now there are some indications that the two men could team up once again for an attempt on Everest.

In a recent interview, Simone has outlined some of his plans for the future, which include several ambitious projects, including a potential return to Everest. He says that he would like to go back to Nanga Parbat to make another attempt at a winter ascent, but he is still searching for the right partner. Previous teammates David Göttler and Denis Urubko are unable to join him this year as David is resting after a busy climbing schedule, and Denis has concerns regarding security on the mountain. But if he can find the right person, Moro would like to go back to Pakistan once again.

Regarding a winter attempt on K2, Simone says that he will not attempt that climb. His says that his wife had a dream in which she saw him die on K2, and because of that dream, he has made a promise to not attempt that mountain in winter. Nanga Parbat and K2 remain the only two 8000-meter peaks unclimbed during that season.

As for his plans with Ueli, Simone says that the two climbers are planning on pairing up to make an attempt on Everest and Lhotse, making a back-to-back summit of the two mountains. He says that they are committed to going back, despite the harsh statements that were made in the wake of the fight with the Sherpas. Moreover, the Nepali government has recognized that there were extenuating circumstances that disrupted their expedition last year, and has extended their permit, allowing them to return to try again.

According to the story linked to above, they will not be going back this fall, as there is too much snow on the mountain following the monsoon. Instead, they are likely to wait until spring, and then make their return to Everest – something I think we'd all like to see happen.

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