Himalaya Fall 2014: Progress on Lhotse and Makalu

The fall climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to draw to a close. Most of the commercial teams have wrapped up operations for the year, and have now started for home. It has been a successful autumn on Cho Oyu and Manaslu, while Shishapangma has shut out all attempts thus far. But there are still a few teams still in the mountains, and they are continuing to make progress on their intended routes.

We'll start today with the Korean squad that is attempting the South Face of Lhotse. The team has faced poor weather almost from the time they touched down in Kathmandu, but they continue to press ahead with their efforts none the less. Progress has been slow this season, but they are making the best of the situation. According to their most recent dispatch, they have now established Camp 2 at 6800 meters (22,309 ft), and they are working on constructing Camp 3 at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), although that has been a real struggle so far. The team is said to be in good spirits however, and the forecast is for improved conditions in the future. Hopefully this will allow them to push towards the summit in the days ahead.

Meanwhile, over on Makalu, the British tri-service team is back in BC for a much needed rest. They've been working the route along the Southeast Ridge for several weeks now, and have Camp 2 firmly in place at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). The squad spend several days there earlier in the week, and have now descended to recuperate and gain their strength. The plan is to begin shuttling more gear up the mountain over the next few days, and they are now eyeing a summit bid sometime after October 15.



Yesterday, a helicopter delivered some fresh supplies, including a new generator. Their previous model had been giving them problems, so they requested another one. This should provide the power they need to post dispatches more regularly.

The Madison Mountaineering team is also on Makalu, and have been making good progress since they switched routes over to the Northwest Ridge. Earlier in the week, they established C2 on that side of the mountain at 6464 meters (21,210 ft). According to their most recent dispatch, the weather has been good over the past few days. They expected to go up to Camp 3 yesterday, and then descend back to BC tomorrow for a rest. After that, they'll be looking for a good weather window to go for the summit as well.

Chris Jensen Burke has wrapped up her Cho Oyu expedition with a successful summit last weekend. She's now on her way home, but has started to post her thoughts on the climb. You can read the first part of her recap by clicking here. As usual, she provides good insights into what it is like to climb an 8000-meter peak, sharing her own personal experiences quite nicely. Definitely a good read for those who want to know more about these big peaks.

Finally, Bo Belvedere Christensen is pulled the plug on his attempt of Shishapangma. He had hoped to bag a second 8000-meter peak this fall, after successfully summiting Cho Oyu last week. But, as we've heard from a number of teams throughout the course of the season, the snow on Shisha is incredibly deep this year, and it has created unstable conditions, ripe for avalanches, near the summit. He'll now return home as well.

That's all for now. I'll continue to post updates as they are warranted.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: More Summits on Cho Oyu, Ueli Talks Shishapangma Tragedy

The fall climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to wind down now, with just a few major expeditions still taking place. Over the weekend, there were more successful summits on Cho Oyu, and while those climbers struggled against high winds, back in Kathmandu, Ueli Steck talked about the tragedy on Shishapangma two weeks back that claimed two lives.

We'll start on Cho Oyu, where Chris Jensen Burke has claimed another 8000 meter peak, expanding her already impressive resume even further. She reports that topped out on Saturday of this week, along with her always-present Sherpa guide Lakpa, at 8:45 AM, and was joined at the top by a few other teammates a short time later. While details of the ascent remain sketchy at this time, Chris did indicate that they set out for the summit late that morning due to high winds, and they continued to battle sustained 50km (31 mph) gusts all the way up. She described it as the hardest climb she has made so far, and mentioned that she wore more clothes than ever before in order to stay warm. The Aussie climber promises more details of the climb soon, and should be resting back in BC now.

Meanwhile, Germany mountaineering reporter Stefan Nestler has posted an interview with Ueli Steck in which the Swiss climber talks about the avalanche that took place on Shishapangma two weeks back that claimed the lives of Italian climber Andrea Zambaldi, as well as German Sebastian Haag. Ueli described the scene as "eerie" saying that he and Benedikt Bohm were climbing a bit ahead of their teammates, as well as a third climber by the name Martin Maier. Steck said that a large ice slab simply gave way on the mountain, sweeping over Zambaldi, Haag, and Maier, almost without making any sound at all. The entire incident happened fast, and without warning, catching all five of the men off guard.



Ueli says that he and Bohm immediately tried to assist their friends, but the danger was too great. Climbing out to the area where they had fallen would have create an even greater chance of more avalanches, and although they searched for signs of their friends, they were forced to descend back to Camp 3. He also indicated that Maier was able to dig himself out of the avalanche and descend later as well, with just minimal injuries.

Steck is also quick to defend the Double8 expedition, as the team was known. The original plan was for Bohm, Haag, and Zambaldi to climb both Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, while traveling between the two peaks on mountain bikes. Steck described the idea as "an attractive, inspiring project" that wasn't taking undue risks. They just happened to get caught in the wrong place at the wrong time, and as a result, two of the team members lost their lives. The Swiss climber says that it could have easily been him caught in that avalanche, and it was just pure luck that he and Bohm were able to avoid it.

Elsewhere, the British Tri-Service team continues to acclimatize and get ready for their attempt along the tough Southeast Ridge of Makalu. They have now firmly established Camp 2 at 6800 meters (22,309 ft) and hope to install Camp 3 at 7200 meters (23,662 ft) later this week. They report that knee-deep snow on the mountain is making it difficult to progress, and a recent electrical storm put a scare into the squad, but otherwise things are progressing as expected so far.

That's all from the High Himalaya today. More news as it is warranted.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Second Summit Push Begins on Cho Oyu and Manaslu

Things are moving quickly in the Himalaya at the moment, where a number of teams are on the move once again, with the summit on their respective mountains in sight. A good weather pattern has descended over the region, and this is allowing safe passage to summits on both Cho Oyu and Manaslu. At this pace, within a few days, many of the principal climbers will have wrapped up their expeditions for the season, with just a few squads staying behind to continue towards their objectives.

We'll start to day on Manaslu, where teams have been topping out once again over the past few days. Amongst them was the commercial squad led by the Mountain Professionals, who reached the top on Wednesday, with a 100% success rate amongst clients and guides. The entire team descended back to Base Camp yesterday, and as of this morning they have already departed the mountain for home.

ExWeb is reporting that a number of other climbers have also topped out in the past few days, including Spaniards Antonio Jesús Vélez, Carlos Carvajal, Fernando Fernández-Vivancos and Pepe Saldaña. They were joined on the summit by a pair of climbers from the the Amical Alpin team, as well as American Alex Barber, who says that he stood on top of the mountain with just one other climber, giving him a sense of having the summit all to himself.

While the teams are wrapping things up on Manaslu for the year, others are just launching their climbs on Cho Oyu. Chris Jensen Burke left Base Camp on October 1, and may summit as early as today, depending on weather conditions. The window to the top is expected to be open through the weekend however, so if progress is slow, she will possibly reach the summit tomorrow instead. She reports that a team of Iranian climbers set out for the summit on Wednesday as well, and were hoping to push all the way to the top yesterday. No word yet on their success, but we're likely to hear more from the mountain soon. Burke also has two other climbers with her, and they are expected to top out tomorrow as well.


Over on Shishapangma, Base Camp is all but deserted. Following the tragedy that claimed two lives in an avalanche last week, most of the teams have elected to go home due to unsafe conditions near the summit. That includes Ueli Steck, who had come to the mountain to climb with his wife, and was with the Double8 team when the avalanche claimed two team members.

Danish climber Bo Belvedere Christiansen has arrived in BC on Shishapangma, fresh off a successful summit on Cho Oyu. He still intends to attempt a second 8000-meter peak this fall, although he is taking a few days to recover before he launches his push on Shisha. Hopefully he'll find conditions there safer than those who had gone before him.

Over on Makalu, we get word from the British Tri-Service team that the weather is good, and everything is proceeding according to plan. The squad is working on establishing Camp 2 at the moment, while their support team begins fixing ropes to C3. The group is acclimatizing nicely, and there have been now issues to report thus far.

Also on Makalu is a commercial team led by Madison Mountaineering. They only just arrived in BC last week, and have just started their acclimatization rotations. All is going well on their part as well, but the team has decided to change their route to the  Northwest Ridge, which is the more typical path taken to the summit. That means that they are moving the BC over to the Barun Glacier at about 18,500 feet (5639 meters). That move was expected to start yesterday, so over the weekend they will likely get settled into their new Base Camp, and start exploring that side of the mountain.

It now appears that the summit bids are all but over on Manaslu, and after this weekend, Cho Oyu is likely to be quiet as well. With little action remaining on Shishapangma, we can begin to see the season start to wind down already. There are obviously some big expeditions still on the mountains, and we'll continue to bring you updates in the days ahead. But the fall season has, for the most part, gone as expected. Soon, the Himalaya will be abandoned once again, until the very busy spring season arrives next year.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Summits on Cho Oyu, Teams Abandon Shishapangma

More news from the Himalaya today, as reports of success on Cho Oyu trickle in as expected. But over on Shishapangma, some teams are calling it quits due to safety concerns, while others arrive on that mountain seeking their second 8000-meter peak of the season.

As expected, the commercial teams that launched summit bids on Cho Oyu topped out amidst good weather this morning. Winds were light and visibility was high on top of the mountain, affording the summiteers great views of Nepal and Tibet, as well as surrounding mountains, including Everest and Lhotse. The latest dispatch from IMG says they team put two guides, seven climbers, and six Sherpas on the summit. Everyone is in good shape, and descending back to C2 today.

The Adventure Consultants summited a few hours behind the IMG team, but had similar results. They managed to put eight Sherpas, two guides, and six climbers on the summit, although by the time they topped out, the winds were starting to pick up a bit more, and clouds were beginning to move in as well. They are all on the descent now too, after spending a half hour on top of Cho Oyu.

Congratulations to all of the climbers who topped out on Cho Oyu. Get down safely.

The news isn't as good from Shishapangma, where ExWeb is reporting that some teams are now abandoning the mountain due to poor weather and unsafe conditions. Following the avalanche that claimed two lives last week, climbers on Shisha have reevaluated the situation there, and most have elected to go home rather than risk their safety. This includes 75-year old Carlos Soria, who had been as high as Camp 2, and even as late as yesterday was working to continue his acclimatization efforts. It appears that the mountain is simply too unstable for safe climbing this fall, and the risks of avalanche on the high slopes are too great.


Not everyone has given up on a Shisha summit this season however. After topping out on Cho Oyu earlier in the week, Bo Belvedere Christensen is now headed to Shishapangma in an attempt to claim a second 8000 meter peak in a relatively short span of time. Whether or not he'll change his mind once he surveys the mountain remains to be seen. ExWeb reports that Ivan Braun, a climber from Denmark, will be attempting the same feat.

Elsewhere in the Himalaya, the Korean team on Lhotse reports slow progress due to continued poor weather. They have reportedly finished stocking Camp 2, and are working to establish C3 at the moment, with the hopes of pushing up to C4 sometime within the next week or so. The team is counting on a change of weather soon, so they can begin planning the summit push, but at the moment, conditions remain difficult.

It turns out that the British military team won't be alone on Makalu this fall. They've been joined in Base Camp by a team led by Garret Madison of Madison Mountaineering. The squad only just arrived in BC this week, and have spent the past few days making acclimatization hikes throughout the region. They should start moving up the mountain within a few days however, so expect to hear more about their efforts as well. Garret is coming off a successful K2 expedition this summer, and will now lead this team in Nepal.

That's it for this Himalayan update. The season is already starting to wind down, and while there are still teams to follow, some of the bigger commercial squads are already preparing to head home. I'll continue to post updates as the news warrants it however, as there are still some exciting expeditions taking place.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Summit Push Underway on Cho Oyu

The pace is starting to pick up in the Himalaya, where last week we saw summits on Manaslu, and we begin this week with a summit push on Cho Oyu as well. Meanwhile, teams on other mountains continue to acclimatize and wait for their opportunities too.

The commercial teams on Cho Oyu launched their summit bids this past weekend, and are hoping to top out today. That includes both the IMG squad, as well as the team led by the Adventure Consultants. Both were in Camp 3 yesterday, and should now be working their way towards the top of the 8201 meter (26,906 ft) peak. If everything goes according to plan, we should have news of successful summits later today, or by tomorrow.

Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is on Cho Oyu as well, and a few days back she reported that high winds and deep snow were thwarting efforts to fix ropes. Conditions must have improved however, otherwise the other teams would not be making a move towards the summit. She also indicated that her team would be spending the weekend at Camp 2 as part of their acclimatization process, so they aren't quite ready to make their own push to the top just yet. Chris was quite dismayed to learn that two climbers had used her, and her Sherpas, bottled oxygen and masks that were stored at C2, which means they must carry more supplies to that point in preparation for their own summit bid down the line. That creates not only an expense for her, but they will also expend more energy having to carry extra supplies with them when they go.


Over on Shishapangma, the teams are saddened by the deaths of Sabastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi in an avalanche last week. But of course, the climbers are there to summit the mountain themselves, so the work in preparation for a summit push must continue. 75-year old Carlos Soria, is in Camp 1 today as he turns his eyes towards the summit. The weather conditions are said to be favorable at the moment, but deep snow has made it a challenge so far. We'll have to wait to see if the team can continue towards the top later in the week, or if they'll have to wait a bit longer for things to settle.

The British military team on Makalu is making progress. In their latest dispatch they indicate that the Sherpa team has fixed ropes to Camp 1, and the entire squad is heading up to ABC, and then proceeding higher as they acclimatize as well. The team has only been in camp a little over a week, and they have a great deal of work ahead of them yet, but progress so far has been steady.

Finally, there was more sad news from the Himalaya over the weekend when it was revealed that 59-year old Japanese climber Yoshimasa Sasaki fell to his death on Manaslu last Friday. He reportedly lost his footing at 7300 meters (23,950 feet) while on the descent after a successful summit. A recovery team is working to collect his body, and return it to Kathmandu. My condolences to his friends and family.

That's it for the Monday morning update. We should have more news in the next day or two on possible summits on Cho Oyu, and other teams moving about. The fall climbing season is definitely in full swing now, with things heating up nicely.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Teams on the Move

It was a fairly active weekend in the Himalaya, where the commercial teams continue to acclimatize in preparation for eventual summit bids. For the most part, things are going according to plan, and while we're still a couple of weeks away from the first major pushes of the season, each day brings the climbers closer to their goal.

We'll start on Makalu, where the British military team reached Base Camp yesterday at long last. It took them 8 days of trekking from the time they left Kathmandu, until they arrived in BC. Now, they are taking a few days to get settled before they'll move up the sloes to Camp 1, and begin their acclimatization process. Over the next few weeks, they'll establish several high camps while they let their bodies become accustomed to the altitude, before launching a tough, alpine-style push to the summit along the very difficult Southeast Ridge. This will be one of the more fascinating expeditions to watch this fall, and it should be interesting to see if they can pull of this big climb.

Over on Manaslu, the teams are starting to talk summit bids. According to the Altitude Junkies, the Sherpas fixed the ropes to just below Camp 4 on Friday, clearing the way for the teams to start planning for their final push. The weather will dictate exactly when that will happen, but if a good window comes in the next few days, we could see the climbers on the move shortly.

On Cho Oyu, the Adventure Consultants have checked in with a regular progress report. The team is in the middle of another acclimatization rotation, and will spend tonight at Camp 2 before heading back down to BC. Sadly, two members of the team were forced to head home after experiencing some health issues. This is not uncommon on expeditions to the big mountains, but it is always a sad to hear that someone has to abandon their dream of climbing in the Himalaya.


75-year old Carlos Soria is attempting Cho Oyu this fall, and he arrived in BC last week. After attending his Puja ceremony, Sora's team has been acclimatizing on some of the smaller mountains near by, while they wait for a chance to move up and start the process of climbing their intended peak. They should get that opportunity in the next few days.

ExWeb is reporting that the Korean team climbing Lhotse this fall had a close encounter with an Avalanche. They were fixing rope between Camp 1 and 2, at around 6200 meters (20,340 ft) when the avalanche struck. Fortunately, no one was injured, and it turned out to be yet another challenge for the  Koreans to overcome. The team has faced poor weather the entire time they have been in Base Camp, but they continue to move upwards, despite the conditions.

Finally, the Double8 team is getting ready to launch their second attempt on Shishapangma. The trio of Benedikt Böhm,Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi took a shot at the summit last week, but heavy snow high on the peak turned them back. After spending the weekend resting in Base Camp, they're ready to go again. They'll launch their second bid today with the hopes of a speed attempt to the summit, and a ski descent back to BC. If successful, they'll then get on their mountain bikes, and ride for approximately 100 miles (160 km) to Cho Oyu Base Camp, where they'll then attempt another speed climb, and ski descent. Their aim is to knock off two 8000 meter peaks in just seven days. I'll keep you posted on their progress.

More updates to come over the next few days. The teams are truly on the move now, but summit bids are not really in the cards just yet. Stay tuned however, as it won't be long now.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Double8 Team Back in BC, No Summit on Shishapangma Yet

I wanted to post a quick update from the Himalaya today on the Doube8 expedition. The team, which consists of Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi, launched their bid to summit two 8000-meter peaks in seven days on Wednesday, and had hoped to have topped out on their first mountain – Shishapangma – yesterday. Unfortunately, the trio are back in Base Camp, and did not manage to summit as they had hoped. But the expedition is not done yet, and they'll be giving it another go in a few days.

According to an update posted on their website, the team ran into deep snow high on the mountain. Reportedly, the snow was several meters deep, making it exhausting to try to break trail and continue upwards. Additionally, they felt that there was a great deal of risk for avalanches as well, so they felt it was best to turn back. The men reached as high as 7700 meters (25,262 ft) before they made a ski descent to Advanced Base Camp. For the record, Shisha is 8013 meters (26,289 ft) in height, so they were closing in on the summit, but still had a good deal of work to do before they would have topped out.

The three climbers, as well as Norbu Sherpa, are all said to be in good health and spirits. They are most assuredly disappointed by the result of their efforts, but they are now resting for another attempt. The dispatch on their website says that that second attempt will get underway "within the next few days," but the countdown time on the front page has been reset, and it would appear that they'll try again starting next Monday.

As you may recall, Böhm, Haag, and Zambaldi hope to first make a speed climb up Shishapangma, then descend back to BC on skis. From there, they intend to ride their mountain bikes 100 miles to reach Base Camp on Cho Oyu, their second 8000-meter peak. They will attempt another alpine-style climb up Cho Oyu, which tops out at 8201 meters (26,906 ft), before once again making a ski descent. It will be an incredibly tough week in the Himalaya, as they are already discovering.

The video below was posted to the team's YouTube Channel as I was prepping this post. It offers more insights.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: Ueli on Shishapangma, Double8 Expedition Set To Begin

The fall 2014 Himalayan climbing season is now in full swing, with most teams either already in Base Camp, or well on their way. For many, the acclimatization process has begun, and the first steps towards reaching the summit have been taken. But there remains a lot of work to be done, and autumn hasn't even officially arrived just yet.

We'll start today on Shishapangma, where Swiss climbing legend Ueli Steck has checked in. Ueli has returned to a peak that he has already climbed in record time (10.5 hours!) to give it another go, this time climbing with his wife Nicole. As usual,  Ueli's dispatches are short, and to the point, so few details have been shared on their progress so far. I'm sure we'll get more updates in the days ahead, and something tells me this won't be another speed attempt this season.

75-year old Carlos Soria is on Shishapangma as well, and earlier today his team completed its Puj ceremony. That means the they are free to begin climbing the mountain, and will probably begin their first rotation up to Camp 1 tomorrow as well. Carlos is going for his 12th 8000-meter peak, which is an impressive accomplishment at any age.

The countdown on the Double8 expedition website says the team is expected to launch their speed attempt on Shishapangma tomorrow. According to their latest dispatch, the team of  Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi have been above 7000 meters on three occasions, and have spent the night in Camp 3. That means that they are acclimatized and ready to go for the summit, provided the weather cooperates. They report that there is lots of snow high on the mountain, which has made for slow, exhausting progress. But, if everything goes as planned, they'll launch their speed attempt tomorrow. If successful, they'll then descend back to BC, and mountain bike and trail run to Cho Oyu, which they also hope to summit in a fast and light style. The ultimate goal? Two 8000-meter peaks in just seven days.


Speaking of Cho Oyu, the commercial teams on that mountain have wrapped up their first acclimatization rotations. Both the Adventure Consultants and IMG teams have been up to Camp 1, and report that all is well. Progress has been sure and steady, and the squads are now happy to descend back to Advanced Base Camp for some rest. The fixed ropes are now in place up to Camp 2, so they'll probably start back up the mountain this weekend. Daily afternoon snow showers are common, but for the most part the weather is good.

Chris Jensen Burke is on her way to join the teams on Cho Oyu. She reached Tingri Village two days back, and spent some time acclimatizing there before moving higher. She is expected to arrive in BC today however, and will proceed immediately up to ABC, with a possible stop over at an interim camp to help with the adjustment to the altitude. Chris is fresh off a successful summit of K2 this summer, and is eager to add yet another 8000-meter peak to her resume.

ExWeb reports that the Korean team on Lhotse has made progress as well. Bad weather had kept them in Base Camp, but the skies cleared long enough for the team to move up to C1 and establish their first camp on the mountain. They are climbing along the South Face of course, sharing the same route to the summit of Everest up to Camp 3.

Over on Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies have returned to BC after spending a night at both Camp 1 and Camp 2. They report that light snow buried their fixed ropes, but they were able to proceed up none the less. The team is splitting the rope fixing duties with the Himex squad, and as of their dispatch, that work was completed to just below Camp 3. Poor weather forced the Sherpas to turn back from that point, although they are expected to return in another day or two to complete the work.

Finally, the British military team heading to Makalu is now en route to Base Camp. They are expected to reach that point on Saturday, when they'll begin their climb at long last. Their attempt on the long, and very difficult, Southeast Ridge will be interesting to follow, as the final approach will be done in alpine style along a route that is 15 km (9.3 miles) in length. This will be one of the more challenging climbs of the year, and it will be quite an accomplishment if they can pull it off.

That's all for now. I'll have another progress report soon.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: More Teams Depart for the Mountains

The 2014 fall climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to pick up steam now. Over the past few weeks, we've seen a number of teams already arrive in Kathmandu, and make their way out to their respective Base Camps. But now, several other high profile squads are en route as well, as the season officially gets under way.

Earlier today, the British Military team climbing Makalu this fall set off at long last. They departed for Nepal from Heathrow International Airport, and should arrive there tomorrow. They'll only spend a few days in the capital city before shipping out to BC. They now estimated that they will arrive on the mountain around Sept. 21, which coincides nicely with the official start of autumn in the Northern Hemisphere. They'll be attempting the incredibly tough Southeast Ridge, which is brutally long and difficult. This will be one of the more interesting expeditions to follow in the weeks ahead, so stay tuned for updates.

Meanwhile, over on Shishapangma, 75-year old Carlos Soria has reached Base Camp. He'll be spending a few days there acclimatizing before he starts heading up the slopes. If he successfully reaches the top in a few weeks time, this will mark his 12th 8000-meter peak, which is an impressive accomplishment at any age. But, Carlos doesn't look like he intends to slow down anytime soon, and he continues to serve as an inspiration to us all.

Chris Jensen Burke left Kathmandu today for Cho Oyu. She hopes to be in Base Camp by next Thursday, after spending some time in both Nyalam and Tingri acclimatizing. Cho Oyu is in Tibet, so much of the journey will be made by vehicle, as opposed to trekking to BC in Nepal. She is allotting just 25 days total for the expedition, and is targeting a summit date around October 4. Of course, the weather will dictate if that schedule will hold or not, but since she is still acclimatized from her summer in the Karakoram, it shouldn't take her long to be ready.

The Adventure Consultants are already on Cho Oyu, and they report that things are going well. They held their Puja ceremony this morning, and spent the remainder of the day prepping their gear for their first rotation up the mountain. Tomorrow, they'll head up to Camp 1 and begin the acclimatization process.

Finally, over on Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies are settling into their routine as well. Their latest dispatch indicates a slight change in schedule, as persistent heavy snowfall over the past few days has made things a bit unstable. Nothing too serious to worry about, but it delayed the rope fixing duties by a day or two. The work is progressing steadily however, and the Sherpas will proceed directly up to Camp 2 tomorrow to start fixing ropes up to C3. The teams will follow them up to C2, where they'll actually be taking their second acclimatization rotation already. Despite the poor weather, things are going about as well as can be expected at the moment.

That's all for updates for today. Look for more progress reports next week.

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Video: The Double8 Expedition Checks In From Shishapangma Base Camp

If you've been reading my updates from the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, you probably have seen me mention the Double8 expedition on a couple of occasions. It features German climbers Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag, along with Italian Andrea Zambaldi, in what promises to be one of the more interesting expeditions of the season. The team will first acclimatize on Shishapangma, then go for a speed attempt on that mountain, before descending back to Base Camp, climbing aboard their mountain bikes, and riding and trail running to Cho Oyu. They'll then make a second speed attempt on that 8000 meter peak as well. A few days ago, the boys arrived in BC on Shisha, and they released the video below sharing their journey so far. It offers a nice introduction to their plans, while giving us plenty of great shots from the trip to the mountain.

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Himalaya Fall 2014: More Arrivals in Kathmandu and Base Camps

It has been a busy few days in the Himalaya, where after a slow start to the fall season, teams are now on the move at long last. Over the past few days, a number of squads have settled into Base Camp, with some even starting their first rotation up their respective mountains. Meanwhile, back in Kathmandu, climbers continue to arrive on the scene, setting the stage for what promises to be an interesting fall throughout the region.

We'll start this update on Lhotse, where a lone Korean team arrived in BC last week. ExWeb says that they endured the remnants of the monsoon while trekking through the Khumbu Valley, and had soggy first few days. But they have completed their Puja ceremony – the ritual in which climbers as for permission from the mountain to climb – and are now waiting for conditions to improve before proceeding up.

75-year old Carlos Soria is freshly arrived in Nepal, and is still in Kathmandu. The Spaniard will be heading out to Shishapangma soon, where he'll begin his attempt to climb is 12th 8000-meter peak. For now, he is content to do some last minute shopping in the capital city, and rest up for the trek ahead, but he plans to leave for the mountain in the next few days.

The trio of Benedikt Bohm, Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi – collectively known as the Double 8 Team – will also be heading to Shishapangma soon. They estimate that their climb will get underway the middle of next week. They have ambitious plans for the fall, as they first intend to climb Shisha, then run and mountain bike to Cho Oyu, and summit that mountain as well, all within about a 7 day time span. First they'll need to acclimatize of course, but once they are ready, the intend to make the climb in a fast and light alpine style. It should be interesting to see how their journey unfolds in the weeks ahead.


ExWeb is also reporting that a team of Slovak ski-mountianeers are preparing to set out for Dhaulagiri soon. The climbers are just arriving in Kathmandu now, and are organizing logistics for the expedition, but will leave for the 8167 meter (26,795 ft) mountain in the next few days.

Jumping over to Manaslu, things are proceeding as expected. The Altitude Junkies report that ropes have been fixed all the way to Camp 2, and the Sherpas from their team, along with Himex, have begun shuttling gear and supplies up to that point. The climbers have also started their first rotation on the mountain, having spent some time in Camp 1 already. With the acclimatization process underway, and the weather cooperating so far, the expedition remains on schedule. Manaslu is reportedly very quiet this fall as compared to recent years, as more teams have crossed the border into Tibet and attempting Cho Oyu instead.

Speaking of Cho Oyu, the Adventure Consultants have checked in from that mountain and report that progress is being made there as well. The teams have now gone as high as Advanced Base Camp as part of their early acclimatization process as well. Reportedly, everyone is still getting settled in BC, and the communications tent hasn't been set up just yet. Once it is completed over the next day or two, we can expect more consistent updates from the mountain.

Finally, there is a familiar name heading to Cho Oyu soon. Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is back in Kathmandu and planning to head out to Base Camp soon. Chris is fresh off a K2 summit in July, and eager to add another 8000-meter peak to her already impressive resume. She says that she briefly considered climbing Shishapangma this fall as well, but decided that was too ambitious of a task considering the other things on her agenda. So, before heading to Ama Dablam later this fall, she'll knock off another mountain from her list.

Good luck to everyone getting ready for the expeditions. I'll continue to post updates as the news warrants.

More about → Himalaya Fall 2014: More Arrivals in Kathmandu and Base Camps

Himalaya Fall 2014 Update: Progressing Slowly

The Fall 2014 climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to get underway, although progress has been slow thus far. A few of the teams have already left Kathmandu for their respective mountains, while others have yet to arrive in Nepal at all. The summer monsoon has, for the most part, dissipated however, and conditions are starting to improve in the mountains. The fall season isn't nearly as busy as the spring of course, but things should now start to ramp up accordingly.

The IMG team is headed to Cho Oyu this fall with a group of climbers looking to get experience on an 8000 meter peak. They reached the Tibetan village of Tingri, a few days back, and took a rest day there to acclimatize some. The entire squad should go to Base Camp today however, where there are still just three teams of Sherpas preparing for the arrival of their clients.

The Adventure Consultants are on the same schedule, and were in and out of Tingri the past few days too. They reported that the town was bustling and noisy, and they are looking forward to escaping to the silence of the mountains, and getting the climb underway at last. Once settled in BC, they'll probably take a few days to rest before proceeding up to Camp 1. But for now, they seem content to be at the starting point of the expedition at last.

Over on Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies are already getting settled into Base Camp. They reached that point on Tuesday, and were immediately beset with poor weather. Rain fell throughout the day, but was fortunately replaced with sunshine and clear skies yesterday. They're hoping that is a good omen of things to come. They hope to hold their Puja ceremony tomorrow, and send the first Sherpa teams up the mountain on Saturday where they'll fix ropes to Camp 1 and scout the route to Camp 2. They're joined on the mountains by team from Himalayan Experience, who will help share the work load.



These commercial squads won't be the only ones in the Himalaya this fall. Experienced climbers like Bo Belvedere Christensen and Benedikt Böhm will be arriving soon too. Both of those men hope to pull off a Himalayan double-header by summiting both Shishapangma and Cho Oyu this fall. Spaniard Carlos Soria will leave for Nepal soon as well, as he goes in search of his 12th 8000-meter peak by climbing Shishapangma too. And the British Makalu squad is gearing up to depart soon as well, as they expect to be in Base Camp by September 21, the official start of fall in the Northern Hemisphere.

As you can see, things are just starting to crank up, and I suspect we'll have more interesting news to report soon. I'm also guessing there will be a few surprises to come as well, such as last season's solo summit of Annapurna by Ueli Steck. He managed to keep that attempt under wraps until it was almost underway, and there are probably a few similar expeditions in the works this year too. I'll post updated on all of the action in the days to come. For now, it is relatively quiet in the Himalaya.

More about → Himalaya Fall 2014 Update: Progressing Slowly

ExWeb Previews 2014 Fall Himalayan Season

Summer is starting to slip away across the Northern Hemisphere, and in Nepal the summer monsoon is starting to weaken at last. That means it is nearly time for the start of another climbing season in the Himalaya, and ExWeb has posted a preview, giving us an idea of what to expect in the weeks ahead.

Typically, the fall climbing season focuses on a number of smaller mountains that are used to gain valuable experience for a spring attempt on Everest. That appears to once again be the case this year, although there are some expeditions that will be attempting some difficult climbs none the less. Take for example the Korean team heading to Lhotse to attempt the South Face. The group hoped to climb the same route last fall, but were thwarted by heavy snows. ExWeb reports that they are already in and out of Kathmandu, and should have started the trek to Base Camp yesterday. That should put them on the mountain sometime late next week, where they'll start their acclimatization process. You may recall that Lhotse is the neighbor of Everest, and shares much of the same route up the South Col.

Meanwhile, over on Makalu, a British military team, supported by a squad of Sherpas, is attempting to summit along the Southeast Ridge. This team is still putting the finishing touches on their preparation, and haven't quite left for Nepal yet. According to their website, they are expected to reach Base Camp around the 20th of September.

Spanish climber Carlos Soria is going for his 12th 8000-meter peak. He'll leave for Shishapangma next week. This past spring, Carlos became the oldest person to summit Kangchenjunga, and at the age of 75, he continues to be an inspiration to all of us. It doesn't appear that Carlos has any intention of slowing down either, as he aims to nab all 14 of the 8-thousanders.


He won't be alone on Shisha this fall. ExWeb says that he'll be joined by an Italian team that will attempt to speed climb both that mountain, and Cho Oyu, traveling between the two on mountain bikes and by trail running. That should be an impressive effort to follow. Danish mountaineer Bo Belvedere Christensen will also be going for the double-header on both Shishapangma and Cho Oyu as well.

Cho Oyu will be one of the mountains that receives a lot of traffic this fall, with a number of commercial teams, including IMG, Summit Climb, and Adventure Consultants leading the way. Those teams have already gathered in Nepal and Tibet, and will be departing for the mountain soon. Once there, they'll be joined by a few independent squads, including Polish climber Olek Ostrowski, who will be attempting to ski the mountain. He departs for the Himalaya tomorrow.

Finally, Manaslu is another mountain that is often used for preparation for Everest. The Altitude Junkies are leading a commercial squad to that mountain, and their Sherpas are already in BC. In their last update, the team was still waiting for the monsoon to abate before proceeding. The Amical Alpin team is also en route to the mountain for a fall summit attempt too.

As of now, there are no announced Everest expeditions for the fall, but that can change of course. We'll be hearing a lot of news in the days ahead about these climbs, and probably a few surprises that haven't appeared on the radar just yet. Stay tuned for more updates in the days ahead.

More about → ExWeb Previews 2014 Fall Himalayan Season