The State of Everest in 2015

With the 2015 spring climbing season in the Himalaya still there months off, there remains a lot of uncertainty surrounding Everest. Following the unprecedented shutdown of the mountain last spring – when an avalanche claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas – politics have played a significant role in governing the future of climbing on the world's tallest peak. This year, commercial teams will return to the mountain, but not without a degree of trepidation as to how the season will unfold.

With this in mind, Alan Arnette has posted another excellent article to his blog that takes a look at the shifting attitudes of climbers and guides heading to Everest this spring. In putting this article together, Alan reached out to some of the top operators on the mountain to gauge their feelings about what to expect in a few months time. Some were very candid in their response, while others spoke off the record. By compiling those responses, Alan is able to give us a glimpse of the season ahead.

I won't spoil the entire article here, as I think it is important that you read it in its entirety. I will point out some of the larger factors that will be impacting the season ahead however. For instance, there still seems to be a lot of uncertainty amongst the guides as to how things will unfold this year. So much so, that the Peak Freaks, one of the top operators on the mountain, have decided to cancel their 2015 and 2016 expeditions to Everest. Others have decided to move to the North Side in Tibet, where they'll be out from under the control of the Nepalese government. These include Alpenglow, who will take 8 clients to the Chinese side of the mountain this spring. It should be noted that Himex had intended to guide an expedition from that side as well, but didn't have any clients elect to climb from the North.

The teams climbing from the South will take a new route through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall this year. This will hopefully eliminate some of the danger and cut down on the amount of time spent in that area. The Sherpas that were killed last spring were passing through the icefall when the avalanche occurred, and the hope is that this new route will be safer all around. The teams are also looking at ways to reduce the number of trips required through the icefall as well, potentially using helicopters to help shuttle gear, although the Nepalese government has been reluctant to allow that in the past.


There is some ongoing debate as to whether or not the North Side is safer than the South. Most of the guides that Alan spoke to didn't feel that was the case, but a few did. The prevailing feeling is that there are fewer deaths on that side of the mountain due to the fewer number of climbers. If more teams had to Tibet to climb, the number of fatalities is likely to go up there as well.

Finally, Alan updates readers about the current situation with the canceled climbing permits from 2014. The Nepalese government had originally said that they would honor them for a period of five years, but the entire team would have to return intact, or climbers would lose their ability to use the permit. They have since backpedaled some on that decision, although the final ruling sits with the Cabinet that oversees the country. They have not made a final decision yet, and are considering charging an additional $1000 to each climber to bring the cost of the permits inline with current pricing. Those changes are keeping some of the mountaineers away at the moment while permit issues get sorted out.

As I said, this is a good article that will give you an indication of the current climate that surrounds Everest expeditions. If you're interested in what is happening there, you'll definitely want to check out the full article.

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Forbes Interviews Ueli Steck

It isn't often that a mountaineer gets mainstream press from a source like Forbes, but then again, not every mountaineer is Ueli Steck. The magazine recently conducted a nice interview with the "Swiss Machine," which you can read in its entirety here.

In the interview, Ueli – who is one of the 2015 National Geographic Adventurers of the Year – discusses his admiration for Reinhold Messner, how he compartmentalizes fear on his climbs, and his now legendary solo-summit of Annapurna. He also talks about his approach to speed-climbing in the Alps – comparing those efforts to a game – and his thoughts on the events that went down on Everest this past spring, including the use of helicopters to reach Camp 2.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the interview is in Ueli's discussion of his post-Annapurna plans. He says that immediately following that climb, he felt no motivations what so ever, and he didn't even do much climbing or training last winter at all. He felt like he had achieved the ultimate climb he had been searching for, he was left rudderless afterwards, searching for a new challenge. Fortunately he seems to have found one, although he doesn't say exactly what that challenge will be. It will involve Everest however, although we'll have to be patient to see what he has planned.

As one of the highest profile mountaineers in the world, Ueli always seems to be working on some interesting projects. He has been rather quiet for awhile now, so I suspect he's been working out the logistics of his next big expedition. Perhaps he'll be heading back to the Himalaya in the spring. Considering the events that took place on Everest in 2013 when he, Simone Moro, and Jonathan Griffith got into a very public brawl with the Sherpas, it would be good to see him go back. At the time, a lot of harsh words were said, but it seems that the hard feelings have mellowed some.

To read more of Ueli's thoughts on these topics, and others, click here.

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All-Female Sherpa Climbing Team Turns Attention to Kangchenjunga

One of the best stories to come out of the mountaineering world over the past few years has been the emergence of the Maya Sherpa, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, and Dawa Yangzum Sherpa as a high profile climbing team. The three women have joined forces to knock off some of the tallest – and toughest – mountains on the planet, and they aren't finished yet. But they have also found themselves struggling not just with the peaks that they have elected to climb, but also plenty of bureaucracy and misunderstanding as well.

The three ladies have already successfully climbed both Mt. Everest and K2. They were part of the very successful climbing season that took place in Pakistan this summer, and were able to summit K2 on July 26. In doing so, they became the first Nepali women to top out on the second highest mountain on the planet – one that is considered much more difficult to climb than Everest itself.

You would think that having knocked off two of the highest profile mountains on the planet, these women would have little problem finding sponsors to assist them in their endeavors. But according to a recent story in the Nepal Times, they are finding very little support for their efforts, even back home in a country that thrives on mountaineering. When they announced that they intended to climb K2, the response from many officials in Nepal was "Where is that?" Never the less, the Ministry of Tourism in Nepal pledged to give the team Rs 500,000 (roughly $8000) to help pay for their expedition. They have yet to receive any of that money, and they still owe Rs 2 million (about $31,600) on their K2 expedition.

Despite these set backs, they are forging ahead with plans to climb another 8000 meter peak. In the spring they hope to make an attempt on Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world at 8586 meters (28,169 ft). The mountain is located along the border of Nepal and Tibet, which will hopefully aid their cause in finding funding for the expedition. 2015 will mark the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of the mountain, and the girls hope to be there to commemorate that historic event.

When not climbing, the three women – each of whom is married – works as trekking and climbing guides. They are also very active in Himalayan Women Welfare Society, and organization focused on improving the lives women living in the region. They hope to be a good example for young Nepalis, many of whom don't know much about the mountains that surround them.

Considering all of the stories we've heard about the Nepali government over the past year, it shouldn't come as much of a surprise that officials would promise to help this team, only to not deliver on that promise and provide the women with the funds they need. Hopefully they will find a good connection with some sponsors, as they certainly deserve to have some attention drawn to their adventures in the mountains.

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The Cost of Climbing Everest: 2015 Edition

Whenever I discuss an expedition to Mt. Everest with someone who doesn't know much about mountaineering, I find that they are always surprised by two things. First, they have no idea that it takes roughly two months to summit the mountain after you factor in travel time to the Himalaya, getting to Base Camp, acclimatizing to the altitude, and waiting for the proper weather window. They are also continually shocked at how much an Everest climb actually costs, as they don't understand all the logistics involved.

To help all of us understand those costs better, each year, our friend Alan Arnette does a detailed analysis of the current going rates for an Everest climb. Yesterday, he posted the 2015 edition of his annual report, and it wasn't good news for prospective climbers. As Alan indicates in his report, costs have gone up substantially for the spring climbing season, and more companies are jumping across the border into Tibet in order to avoid ongoing strife between the Nepali government and the Sherpas in the wake of last year's shutdown on the South Side.

There are several significant factors that are causing the price of an Everest expedition to go up, including a raise in price for the climbing permit. This year, all climbers will be charged a flat-fee of $11,000 to get their name on a permit. In the past, it was usually about $10,000, with the overall price for the permit spread out across multiple climbers. Alan also says that more teams are increasing the amount of life insurance they are carrying for their Sherpa staff as well, going up from $10k to $15k, with the difference being covered by the clients of course. On top of that, Nepal has begun enforcing a 2012 rule that requires all trekkers and climbers to hire a local Sherpa guide for use during their visit. He estimated that will add an additional $4k to the price.

What does all of this mean for climbers wanting to attempt Everest? Alan says that the average price for a climb without western guides is now at $41,700. With western guides, that price rises to $57,000 on the South Side, and $46,000 on the North. In other words, it is a substantial sum of money no matter which side of the mountain you're climbing, and who you are climbing with. Alan is quick to point out that a few high-end guide services on the North Side are also skewing the average to a degree. Alpenglow and Himex have both jumped to the Chinese side of the mountain for 2015, and they charge $79,000 and $64,000 respectively. Without their numbers added into the mix, a North Side climb averages about $37,000.


But the big story isn't just the change in pricing. Alan says that there are major changes afoot in Nepal, as local operators take over the South Side. These companies have been offering good service for years, and now they have also learned the business side of leading expeditions as well. Many of these companies are now undercutting western guide services, and are attracting more and more clients. Alan warns that not all of these companies offer the same experience however, and that it remains a "buyer beware' environment.

This is just the very beginning of the report, as Alan also goes into the cost breakdown of the climb, examining the details of what you actually get for your money. He also looks at the price for planning your own Everest expedition, as well as the options for hiring guides, the size of teams, summit stats, and much more. Basically, this report contains everything you've ever wanted to know about putting together a climb on Everest, and then some.

If you follow the climate on Everest, much of what is reported here will come as no surprise. Considering the political fallout that came after the South Side was shutdown last spring, the future of expeditions to that side of the mountain remains a bit uncertain. Obviously the mountain is a cash-cow for the government of Nepal, but major disruptions could continue in the future, as disputes with labor still need to be resolved. It is a time of upheaval on Everest, and not all of the past conflicts have been settled just yet.

We still have a little over four months to go before the start of the busy Spring climbing season. It is already shaping up to be another interesting one.

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Take A Hot-Air Balloon Ride Over Everest – For $2.6 Million

While we're on the topic of Everest today, adventurer Chris Dewhirst has announced that he is looking for two people to join him on an epic hot-air balloon flight over the mountain, with the cost of the trip running $2.6 million each.

Dewhirst is no stranger to balloon flights over Everest. Back in 1991, he became the first person to ever complete such a journey. Now, he's looking to replicate that feat, and he's giving a couple of well-heeled adventurers the chance to join him.

The flight is being advertised on a luxury-travel site called If Only. The site offers a host of unusual items and experiences for sale, including a tennis weekend with Andre Agassi and Stefi Graf ($116,000), a private workout in San Francisco with Jerry Rice ($14,335), and an African safari with Jan Reynolds ($14,500).

But few of the times listed on the site can compare to the balloon ride over Everest. If someone should actually purchase the experience, they'll get more than just a short flight over the Himalaya. The itinerary calls for the team to be in Nepal for a couple of weeks as they acclimatize to the altitude, and wait for the proper weather conditions for the flight. The actual balloon ride will be an all-day affair, as Dewhirst takes himself, and his passengers, up to about 30,000 feet (9144 meters) so they can gently drift over the summit of Everest.

The If Only ad recommends that those who are interested in joining this adventure be in good physical condition. It will be a challenge, despite the fact that they aren't actually climbing the mountain. The ad says that those who do join Dewhirst on this flight will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular views on the planet.

So, if you're in good shape, want to see Everest for yourself, and have $2.6 million burning a whole in your pocket, you can find out more about this trip by clicking here.

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Adventure Journal Brings Us 16 Interesting Things About Everest

We're still several months away from the start of the spring climbing season on Everest, and yet the "Big Hill" is never far from our thoughts. Case in point, earlier this week the Adventure Journal posted an article that lists "16 Interesting Things About Everest," with some truly surprising facts making the list.

Of course, I don't want to give away too much of what AJ shared on the list, but to give you just a hint of what to expect here are a couple of the items that made the list:

• On May 27, 2006, Lakpa Tharke Sherpa summited Mt. Everest, then took off all his clothes and stood naked for three minutes in an attempt to set a world record.

While people are always flocking to Everest to set some kind of new record (a teenager recently set a record for the highest altitude game of Call of Duty in Everest Base Camp), taking your clothes off on the summit seems like a truly bad idea. It is crazy "records" like this one that continue to create a circus like atmosphere around the world's highest peak.

 • A Nepalese couple, Moni Mule Pati and Pem Dorjee Sherpa, were married on the summit in 2004.

All that said, this is one Everest stunt I can get behind. Can you imagine getting married on the summit of the tallest mountain in the world? It would be difficult to top those wedding photos. Of course, you wouldn't have too many guests joining you for the ceremony, but the celebration back in Base Camp was probably outstanding!

These are just a couple of the fun facts that Adventure Journal shares in this article. If you haven't had your Everest fix in awhile, then click here to see what other interesting items they shared.

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Are You Ready To Tackle Everest?

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya may still be a few months away, but the shadow of Everest always looms large over the outdoor adventure community. With that in mind, Winfields Outdoors – a retail chain that sells gear in the U.K. – has put together a fun infographic to check to see if you're ready to take on the tallest mountain on the planet, and as you can imagine, it is filled with helpful links to websites that can prepare you for an expedition to the Big Hill.

The handy guide to preparing for Everest begins by first taking a look at the skills and gear you'll need for the climb, as well as providing some insights into how altitude could effect the expedition. Some of the links in this section include a list of the best mountains for beginners, a run-down of ten items you'll need to take to Everest, and tips for how to acclimatize to the high altitude.

From there, we move on to look at the level of fitness required for a Himalayan climb, with insights on how to get Everest fit, as well as preparing for the mental rigors of dealing with such a demanding environment. There is even a section that breaks down the costs of an expedition to Everest, with a link to our friend Alan Arnette's annual guide for that very subject.

The infographic doesn't end there however, as it also addresses the topic of finding the proper guide, complete with an official guide directory, which route to take to the top, and information on how to secure your climbing permit. There is even tips for how to descend properly following a successful summit.

In case you couldn't tell already, this infographic has enough links and information to keep you busy for awhile. So whether you're an old pro at Everest expeditions, or just starting to lear, you'll probably find something of value here. Check it out for yourself by clicking here. Just don't plan on doing anything else for awhile, as you'll probably be kind of busy.

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Nepal Backtracks on Everest Permits, 2014 Climbers No Longer Need to Return as a Group

What a difference a week can make. Last Monday I posted a story about how Nepal was honoring the cancelled permits from the 2014 Everest climbing season, but had put a stipulation on their use that would cause many to be unable to climb on the permit that they actually paid for. But now, the Himalaya country has backtracked on those restrictions and is providing better opportunities for the climbers who saw their dreams of scaling Everest dashed this past spring.

As I'm sure most of you know by now, the spring climbing season on Everest was cancelled following a massive avalanche that left 16 Sherpas dead. It was the worst accident in the history of the tallest mountain on the planet, and the aftermath left many of the men and women who work on the mountain angry, confused, and demanding better compensation. At the time, the Nepali government made the decision to close things down, while they looked for ways to defuse the situation. That decision sent hundreds of foreign climbers home, unsure of their future on Everest.

Eventually Nepal's Ministry of Tourism announced that it would honor the climbing permits for five years, giving most of the mountaineers an opportunity to return to Everest, and attempt to climb the mountain once again. But the preliminary announcement indicated that all the climbers listed on a permit would need to return together in order to take advantage of this plan. Those that were unable to come back with their teammates would see their opportunity forfeit, and would have to pay for another permit on future attempts. This meant that if a single member of a team went back to Everest, and used his or her 2014 permit, all the other climbers listed on that document would no longer be able to use that permit themselves.

This was of course a confounding stipulation, as it would be almost impossible for a full team to reassemble to try Everest once again. Fortunately, someone in Nepal saw this as a problem, and was successful in changing the rules. Now, any climber who was on a cancelled permit from the spring 2014 climbing season can use that permit at any time over the course of the next five year. They no longer have to return with their previous team, and they can sign on to any expedition they choose.

I applaud the Nepali government for making this change to the regulations that will give climbers on 2014 permits more freedom to choose when they'll return. This is how the system should have worked in the first place of course, but it is good to see that someone saw the injustice in the previous plan, and made a move to adjust it. Hopefully now, more climbers will have an opportunity to go back to Everest over the next five years, and attempt to climb the mountain.

The spring 2015 season is still months away of course, and yet we continue to find plenty of things to talk about in regards to Everest. I have a feeling the run up to the start of the next climbing season is going to be an interesting one.

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Video: The Milky Way Rises Over Mt. Everest in Timelapse

We've seen some impressive timelapse videos in recent months, and this one ranks right up near the top. It features an amazing starscape, that includes the Milky Way itself, as it rises over Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain on our planet. As you can imagine, this makes for quite a celestial show. Enjoy!

The Milky Way Rising over Mt. Everest. from Alex Rivest on Vimeo.

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Nepal Extends Spring 2014 Climbing Permits for 5 Years – With a Catch!

I am back from Ecuador and ready to get back to updating The Adventure Blog on a regular schedule once again. A lot happened while I was away for the past week and a half, so over the next few days I'll be playing catch-up to a degree. So with that said, lets get stated with an important news story that broke out of Nepal last week regarding the climbing permits from the spring 2014 season, when the South Side of Everest was shut down due to the tragic avalanche that claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas on the mountain.

In the wake of that disaster – the worst in Everest history – the Nepali government announced that it would honor the climbing permits for all of the mountaineers who were unable to attempt to climb the world's highest mountain this past spring. Further, officials said that those permits would be good for up to five years, allowing climbers to come back once again, and give Everest another go. Of course, this sounds like the honorable thing for Nepal to do, considering the way the situation unfolded this past spring. But the fine print to this announcement has left many shaking their heads once again, as the Himalayan country continues to show a complete disregard for the people that spent tens of thousands of dollars to climb Everest, but didn't even get the chance to set foot on the mountain.

In their announcement, officials from the Ministry of Tourism indicated that all of the climbers listed on a permit must return to climb Everest together, or the permit will become null and void. In other words, if a single climber returns to the mountain under his or her 2014 permit, the rest of the team must accompany that climber, or they lose the right to make their attempt, and must pay for a new permit.


This is, of course, a ludicrous rule, as it will be nearly impossible for an entire team to reassemble and attempt to climb Everest together again. It makes a good deal of scheduling – not to mention budgeting – for a trip to the Himalaya to come together, and for everyone listed on a single permit to be able to coordinate their efforts seems unlikely. While some groups will probably be able to get members of the team together, it seems unlikely that entire teams will be able to agree on a date when they can all go back to Nepal together. Some climbers are simply going to lose their climbing fees, and of course Nepal is simply going to pocket that money.

The right thing to do would be to honor the permits for five years as announced, but to allow the climbers who have already paid for their permits to join other squads as their schedule permits. Why Nepal has elected to enforce these strict guidelines is unclear, but it also seems typical for the way the government their handles these situations. It is a clear sign that the officials calling the shots there are only interested in money, and not the best interest of the mountaineers who visit their country on an annual basis. Then again, this is no surprise for anyone who has followed the situation in the Himalayan country closely over the past few years. Corruption and inept management of its resources are the norm in Nepal, and that doesn't look like it is going to change anytime soon.

Hopefully, most of the climbers who were hit by the shutdown will be able to return and claim their right to use the permits they paid for. But it will simply be impossible for all of them to do so, and more than a few are going to be left out in the cold. It is a bad situation that continues to get worse.

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Video: Sean Disney & Vaughan de La Harpe Talk Mountaineering Adventures at FEAT Jo'burg

A few weeks back, the annual FEAT event took place in Johannesburg, South Africa. FEAT stands for Fascinating Expedition & Adventure Talks, and it is features a number of very interesting men and women who have just seven minutes to share a tale from their adventures. In the video below, climbing partners Sean Disney and Vaughan de la Harpe take to the FEAT stage to introduce some of the interesting people that they have met on their expeditions to climb the Seven Summits, most notably Everest. Their seven-minute presentation is particularly humorous, as they introduce us to a number of unique individuals that they have encountered along the way. There are definitely more than a few laughs to be had over the course of their talk.

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National Geographic Pinpoints Location, Size of Everest Avalanche

The spring climbing season on Everest is far behind us at this point, and most climbers have already started looking ahead to 2015. But the shadow of this past season will loom over the mountain for years to come, and continue to be discussed in mountaineering circles for even longer. With that in mind, over the past several months, National Geographic has been using satellite photography to examine the mountain in an attempt to pinpoint the exact location of the avalanche that claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas. That research has not only discovered exactly where the ice serac was located on the mountain, but has allowed Nat Geo to estimate its size as well.

The report on the avalanche was published yesterday on National Geographic's website. It includes a "before and after" satellite photo of Everest, with the first image taken on April 7, and the second on April 26. The avalanche occurred on April 18. The location of the large serac is outlined in yellow on both images, and is clearly missing in the second photo, which gives us a sense of the scale of the avalanche as well.

The research presented in the article comes our way courtesy of National Geographic's senior editor and cartographer Martin Gamache, who says that the surface area of the ice block prior to collapse was roughly the size of an NBA basketball court, and it towered more than 113 feet (34.4 meters) in height. He estimates that it weighed approximately 31.5 million pounds (14.3 million kilograms), which gives you an idea of the amount of force that hit the climbers on the mountain that day in April.

Exactly what caused the collapse remained a mystery, but Gamache chalks it up to gravity. He says that is the force that is generally the cause of these kinds of accidents. There has been some speculation that climate change may have played a role as well, with warmer temperatures possibly allowing large chunks of ice to become unstable over time.

The results of Camache's study coincide with the release of the November issue of National Geographic Magazine, which contains a number of stories revolving around the Everest tragedy. Amongst them is "Sorrow on the Mountain," which recounts the events of that day in detail. Another article takes an in-depth look at Sherpa culture, and what drives those strong men and women to live and thrive in the harsh Himalayan environments. The issue is on newsstands now and available to download in electronic format as well.

This is more fascinating coverage of what is undoubtedly the adventure story of 2014.

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Alan Arnette Posts 2015 Everest Preview

While the fall climbing season in the Himalaya continues to slowly wind down for another year, it is already time to start thinking about the spring climbing season ahead. While the start of that season is still six months away, the prep work and planning is already well underway. With that in mind, Alan Arnette has posted a preview for Everest in 2015, providing readers with valuable insight on how climbing on the world's highest peak will be both different, and the same, next year.

Alan begins his preview first remarking on how the 2014 season unfolded. As I'm sure most of you recall, a massive avalanche on the South Side of the mountain claimed the lives of 19 Sherpas, bring an end to climbing operations on the Nepali side of the mountain. Only a single non-Sherpa climber managed to summit from that side of the mountain this past spring, while on the North Side, about 125 climbers managed to top out. The political fallout from the spring continues to unfold in Nepal, and it will no doubt have long lasting repercussions on the climbing scene there. Exactly what that means for the long-term climbing conditions on Everest remain to be seen, but we already know that the Sherpas are looking for better working conditions, higher compensation, and increased benefits for their families should they die on the mountain. It is clear that the shadow of this past spring season will continue to hang over the mountain in 2015, and for many years to come.

One thing that is changing on Everest next year is the cost of climbing. Alan points out that a number of the larger commercial teams are raising prices – sometimes substantially. For instance, the Peak Freaks have raised their price by 22%, going from $39k to $49k. This is still a relative bargain in terms of Everest climbs, but it is worth noting none the less. RMI made an 11% jump, from $59k to $66k, while Jagged Globe, Altitude Junkies, 7 Summits Club, and IMG all hiked their costs up to a lesser degree as well.


For the most part, the reason for the raising of prices is directly due to an increased cost of doing business in Nepal. As Alan points out, the inflation rate in that country is roughly 9.4%, and that alone will have an impact on a company's bottom line. But, climbing permits have also gone up in price, as has the cost of insurance that most mountaineers get when heading to the mountain. Those factors are all conspiring together to make Everest a more costlier venture then ever before, and the expenses are being passed on to the consumer.

Alan says that the real story however is the rise of cheaper options for climbing the mountain. These are coming in the form of locally-owned guide services that are finding ways to operate on Everest at less expense, most notably by paying workers a cheaper wage. These Nepali-owned and operated companies are offering Everest climbs for $25k-$35k, substantially less than what the foreign-owned companies are charging. A decade ago, 80% of the expeditions on Everest were led by guide companies that operated outside of Nepal. Alan predicts that in five years time, that number will have dropped to just 20%, as Nepali companies take over those operations.

Other interesting nuggets of information to note from Alan's preview is that Himex (aka Himalayan Experience), the large commercial team run by Russell Brice, will return to the North Side of Everest for the first time since 2008. It seems Brice is hedging his bets for 2015, leading teams from both the North and South sides of the mountain. Meanwhile, the Alpenglow team will only operate on the North Side, as owner Adrian Ballinger says that no "credible" operator would continue to risk the icefall on the South Side.

These are just a few of the things that Alan touches on in his Everest 2015 preview. He also discusses the increased dangers of climbing on the South Side, particularly in and around the Khumbu Icefall. He mentions how unpredictable the weather can be, and how politics are continuing to play a role on how the season develops.

Overall, there is a lot to consider, even months before anyone heads to Kathmandu. With all of that said however, Alan also points out that most of the commercial teams are filling up fast, as climbers who were unable to make a true attempt last year are returning in droves, even as new mountaineers plan their expeditions as well. One thing is for certain, things are never dull when it comes to Everest, and I'm sure 2015 will be no different.

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Outside TV Shares Video From the 2013 Brawl on Everest

One of the biggest stories in mountaineering over the past few years has been the brawl that ensued in 2013 when a team of European climbers got into a heated exchange with Sherpas that were fixing ropes above Camp 2 on the South Side. The fact that the European team included high-profile climbers Ueli Steck and Simone Moro, as well as Jonathan Griffith, only served to make the story a bigger one. Now, Outside Television has released exclusive video from the incident, giving us a glimpse of just how scary the scene on Everest actually was.

The clip, which you'll find below, includes some of the principle people that witnessed the clash, including Ueli, Simone, and Melissa Arnot, who found herself in the middle of the conflict. Each shares their thoughts on what transpired that day, while actual video from the fight rolls. The reactions that we see remain disturbing even now, a year and a half after they transpired. It is still surprising that no one got seriously hurt, but this is a reminder of just how delicate the relationship between commercial climbers and the Sherpa teams can be.

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Simone Moro and Ueli Steck Returning to Everest?

In 2013, Simone Moro and Ueli Steck were involved in one of the more high profile mountaineering incidences in recent memory when they got into a fight with Sherpas on Everest. Words were exchanged high on the slopes, and egos from both parties got in the way, leading to an escalation of the situation beyond what anyone had anticipated. The conflict turned dangerous, and if it wasn't for the intervention of a few other western climbers, who knows what would have happened. As a result of the highly-publicized argument, both Simone and Ueli were turned off to the climbing scene in the Himalaya, and even indicated that they might not return. Ueli has since gone back to make his amazing solo-summit of Annapurna last fall, and now there are some indications that the two men could team up once again for an attempt on Everest.

In a recent interview, Simone has outlined some of his plans for the future, which include several ambitious projects, including a potential return to Everest. He says that he would like to go back to Nanga Parbat to make another attempt at a winter ascent, but he is still searching for the right partner. Previous teammates David Göttler and Denis Urubko are unable to join him this year as David is resting after a busy climbing schedule, and Denis has concerns regarding security on the mountain. But if he can find the right person, Moro would like to go back to Pakistan once again.

Regarding a winter attempt on K2, Simone says that he will not attempt that climb. His says that his wife had a dream in which she saw him die on K2, and because of that dream, he has made a promise to not attempt that mountain in winter. Nanga Parbat and K2 remain the only two 8000-meter peaks unclimbed during that season.

As for his plans with Ueli, Simone says that the two climbers are planning on pairing up to make an attempt on Everest and Lhotse, making a back-to-back summit of the two mountains. He says that they are committed to going back, despite the harsh statements that were made in the wake of the fight with the Sherpas. Moreover, the Nepali government has recognized that there were extenuating circumstances that disrupted their expedition last year, and has extended their permit, allowing them to return to try again.

According to the story linked to above, they will not be going back this fall, as there is too much snow on the mountain following the monsoon. Instead, they are likely to wait until spring, and then make their return to Everest – something I think we'd all like to see happen.

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Video: Filmmaking in the Himalaya with a Drone

Last spring, my friend Jon Miller, from the The Rest of Everest video podcast, took a drone with him when he traveled through Bhutan, Nepal, and Tibet, capturing some spectacular footage from the Himalaya along the way. Last week, he posted another video from the trip, this time giving us a behind the scene's look at how he put his TurboAce Matrix E quadcopter drone through its paces. If you've wondered how these drones are used, or how you could possibly use them on your next project, this is a good video to watch. It also features some fantastic footage of the trek through the Khumbu Valley on the way to Everest Base Camp.

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Is Nepalese Government Using Trash to Distract From Real Everest Issues?

Earlier this year, the government of Nepal issued a new requirement for climbers attempting to summit Mt. Everest. Under that new rule, all climbers would be required to not only pack out all of the trash that they generate while on the mountain, but also bring down an additional 8 kilograms (18 pounds) of waste leftover from past expeditions as well. This measure was meant to help clean up the mountain, and preserve it for future climbers to enjoy as well, but Outside magazine says it was actually just a ploy to help distract from the real issue – ongoing labor disputes with the Sherpas who do the bulk of the work on Himalayan peaks.

Contrary to what is typically reported about Everest, Outside says that there is not a trash problem on the mountain at all. The brief article does acknowledge that the dumping of waste, most notably human feces, into crevasses high on the mountain, is a growing problem. As the glaciers melt, and move down the South Face, it brings that human waste closer to Base Camp. It can also get into the shared drinking water, which makes it unsafe for human consumption. This is an issue that future expeditions will need to be aware of, but carrying extra trash off the mountain isn't going to impact that problem.

Outside senior editor Grayson Schaffer, who has written extensively about the climbing seasons on Everest the past couple of years, says that these trash laws are just a way for the Nepalese government to distract from the ongoing issues it has with dealing with labor conflicts with the Sherpa staff. Those issues came to the forefront this spring when an avalanche killed 16 Sherpas working on the mountain, and set off a chain of events that eventually resulted in all of the climbing teams abandoning the South Side of the Everest. Since then, there have been some concessions made, with improvements in insurance benefits given, but tensions remain high in Nepal, and there are other disputes that remain unresolved.


The Outside article really doesn't provide a lot of new insights into the problems that Nepal faces with the Sherpa teams on Everest. In fact, the article seems to exist to mostly remind us of the ongoing issues, and lingering resentments from the spring climbing season, perhaps to generate some extra traffic. Even the trash laws that they mention in the story are not new, as they were announced all the way back in March. At that point, there were already growing concerns about tensions amongst the Sherpas, but that tension hadn't completely boiled over yet as it would in April following the tragic avalanche.

Personally, I believe that Nepal's trash laws are in place to continue to clean up the mountain, and to create a more sustainable approach to protecting the environment on Everest. Those efforts are independent of the labor disputes that continue to be a challenge as well, and considering the high profile shutdown of climbing this past spring, there isn't much that will distract from those clashes with the Sherpa leadership.

I expect that we have not seen the last of the problems on Everest. Even if there isn't another tragedy like the one we saw this past spring, the Sherpas are becoming more organized and united in their request for better working conditions, compensation, and insurance. Hopefully any future conflicts can be resolved without shutting down the mountain, but there are still significant issues that need to be resolved before we'll see any real progress made.

Many have implied that true progress won't happen until some of the Nepalese officials are replaced. Corruption at the top is perhaps the biggest challenge yet to be overcome, and that could prove far more difficult of a challenge than dealing with trash on the world's tallest mountain, or settling labor issues with the Sherpas. Only time will tell how that problem can be conquered.

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Video: The Relentless River of Everest

Yesterday's story about Ben Stookesberry exploring the Dudh Kosi River in Nepal seemed to have captured the attention of quite a few readers. In that post, I mentioned a British expedition that made the first descent of the river back in 1976, creating a classic paddling documentary called Everest by Canoe, which would later be renamed the Relentless River of Everest. In that post, I shared a trailer for the film, which was enough to give us a taste of what that expedition was like. Today, I have the full film, which is 45-minutes of intense expedition kayaking action. The film is a wonderful throw-back to a different era, and truly generates a great sense of adventure about what the explorers were doing in the Himalaya. This is a classic BBC film, and if you have the time, I highly recommend you watch the entire thing.

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Esquire Interviews 5-Time Everest Summiteer Melissa Arnot

Esquire magazine has posted an interview with Melissa Arnot, one of the most accomplished and respected mountain guides on the planet. For those who aren't familiar with Arnot's resume, she has summited Everest five times, and has topped out on Rainer more than 100 times. She has had multiple expeditions to Aconcagua, Cotopaxi, and Kilimanjaro, and she's even been up Denali once. In short, she's incredibly accomplished in the mountains, and it is great to see her get some mainstream publicity.

Calling her "the most badass woman in mountain climbing," Esquire talks to Melissa about how she prepares to climb Everest. Arnot says that her workout routine involves 4-5 strength and endurance training, mixed with Yoga, several times a week. This year, she even added training for a marathon to the mix, which she ran right before she left for Nepal. She also discusses how she dealt with the disappointment of the season being can called, saying she returned home, and went on a long bike ride from Yellowstone to Glacier National Park, and back again, covering some 700 miles in the process. Arnot says it still didn't feel like it was enough to get her over not being able to climb.

Speaking on the tragic accident that claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas on Everest this past spring, Melissa says that she thinks continuing the expeditions would have helped a lot of people to heal. She says she understands the plight of the Sherpas, and their demands for better pay/insurance, but she also feels they were "shooting themselves in the foot" by closing down the mountain. She emphasizes that the season didn't end because the mountain was too dangerous, but because of a political fight between the Sherpas and the Nepali government.

Melissa also notes that she is returning to Nepal this fall with the Juniper Fund, a nonprofit that she started. She has been raising money to help the families of some of the Sherpas who lost their lives on Everest, and other Himalayan peaks, and will be visiting them to start delivering those funds.


As I mentioned above, it is always great to see someone that we follow on a regular basis here on The Adventure Blog to get some mainstream recognition. This interview is mostly a collection of quotes from Melissa, but they do help to convey her story, and her feelings for life in the mountains, and the tragic set of events that took place in Nepal this season. But, since this is the mainstream press, there are a few inaccuracies in the story. For instance, the writer says that Arnot holds the record for the most summits of Everest by a female climber. Melissa herself would tell you that that is not true. Yes, she has climbed the mountain more times than any other western woman, but Lakpa Sherpa is believed to have six summits, one more than Arnot. If things had gone according to plan, Melissa would have tried to summit twice this past spring, earning her the distinction of holding the record. As it stands, she'll go back next year to add to her total.

The writer also describes a climb up Everest as "trek" at one point, which is hardly the case. True, you can trek to Everest Base Camp, but I don't know that I've ever heard of the climb to the top referred that way. She also mistakenly referred to Glacier National Park as "Glacial," which may sound like I'm nitpicking, but I would expect the writer to at least get that correct.

Still, Melissa does most of the heavy lifting, and it is good to get her read on the situation in Nepal, and her approach to high altitude mountaineering. The article is worth a read for that alone.

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